- Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks’ rotation.
- One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight.
- Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point.
- Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider.
- Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.
- This takes a little bit of your hands’ learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.
- Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check.
- Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel.
- My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on.
- Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row.
- You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way.
- This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.
- Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding.
- Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose.
- That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.